Hanoi holds a special place in my heart, and I will never stop thinking about the food there. The food in Vietnam really does differ by region; the phở you order in Hanoi is not going to be the same in Ho Chi Minh City.
This guide serves as a quick introduction to some of the dishes you’ll find in Hanoi. It’s by no means a comprehensive list. Vietnamese food is so wonderfully diverse, and I hope this serves as a good starting point for your journey to Hanoi.
My biggest tip: if you see locals eating there, pull up a stool. It’s probably good.
Looking for coffee shop recommendations? Check out my coffee guide for Hanoi’s Old Quarter here.
Bánh Cuốn
My favorite Vietnamese dish is banh cuon, and it’s not easy to find in the US – at least in my experience. It’s generally a Northern dish; however, like many regional dishes, banh cuon has traveled and become a staple across the country to be enjoyed by all.
What: Banh cuon is rolled rice batter filled with ground pork and minced mushrooms, topped with fried onions, and served with fish sauce, chilis, kumquats or lime, and herbs like mint, basil, and coriander (cilantro).
Where: My absolute favorite is Banh Cuon Nong Kim Thoa. This spot was actually in one of Anthony Bourdain’s Vietnam episodes, but it wasn’t “featured” in the same way, so it isn’t nearly as popular as the famous Bun Cha restaurant where he ate with Barack Obama. In fact, every time I’ve been there, I’ve only ever seen locals.
How to eat it: Typically, banh cuon will be cut into pieces. You’ll pick up a piece, put it in your spoon, dunk it with some fish sauce, and create the bite you desire (put in herbs, a chili if you want, or whatever else). I usually put some of my herbs into the fish sauce.
Phở
What: Pho is noodle soup and consists of broth, noodles, herbs, and some sort of meat; phở gà (chicken) and phở bò (beef) are the most common. Pho is typically a breakfast dish, so make sure you’re up and ready to eat at the best places early! Some places in the Old Quarter have added evening hours to serve tourists all hours of the day.
Notes on Ordering Beef Pho
You will notice that there isn’t just “phở bò” on the menu, which can be really confusing. Here’s a breakdown of what you’ll see on the menu and what each of them mean:
- Phở tái – this will be thinly sliced and rare beef
- Phở chín – this will be thinly sliced and well done beef
- Phở nạm – this will be well done “flank,” and probably pretty chewy/fatty
- Phở gầu – this will be brisket, so pretty fatty around the edges
- Phở bò viên – beef meatball
- Phở đặc biệt – đặc biệt translates to “special” and is likely to have a little bit of everything
If this list seems intimidating, I’d go with either phở tái or phở chín.
Where: In my experience, most places either serve beef or chicken; you might come across some that have both, but in general, most food stalls in Hanoi only focus on one specific dish. For beef pho, check out Phở Sướng in the Old Quarter.
If you’re up for some chicken pho, I like to sit down at this coffee shop in Truc Bach and order from there. It’s called “Cat Cafe,” but I didn’t see the cat around the last time I went. They work with the pho ga and pho bo spot across the street, and you can enjoy coffee, tea, or a smoothie while you’re eating. This place is the type you’d want to go to early.
How to eat it: when you order pho, you’ll usually see a few things on the table: chopsticks, spoons, limes, chilis, garlic, pepper, oyster sauce, and chili sauce or sriracha. Typically, you’ll want to try your broth first to see how it tastes and then season with the ingredients to your liking. I always add lime, a few chilis, and garlic. After you’ve seasoned your pho, dig in! You’ll notice locals use the chopsticks to put some noodles, herbs, meat, and broth in the spoon to create a perfect bite; I also recommend this method.
Bún chả
Bún chả is a pretty close second for my favorite dishes. Bún means noodles, and chả is grilled pork (don’t quote me for direct translations lol).
What: When you order bun cha, you’ll get a plate of noodles, a bowl of fish sauce with grilled pork patties/meatballs, garlic, chilis, green papaya, and typically a basket of greens.
Where: Last time I was in Hanoi, I tried Bún Chả Nem 41 Cửa Đông in the Old Quarter with my Vietnamese tutor, and I can confidently say that it was the best I’ve had. We were the only foreigners there, which is always a plus.
My first Bun Cha experience was at Bun Cha Hang Quat, also in the Old Quarter. You’ll walk down an alleyway, past Vietnamese men and women rolling up the pork meatballs and grilling the pork, making it a unique experience. As you keep walking, the space opens up with seating.
If you’re outside of the Old Quarter, Bun Cha Thang Hang doesn’t disappoint.
How to eat it: Put some noodles and greens in your fish sauce and start digging in!
Bánh Mì
Honestly, you can’t go wrong with a Banh Mi.
What: In general, it’s a sandwich in a baguette with sausage (or whatever meat you choose), coriander, cucumber, carrots, and maybe some pate if you’re feeling adventurous. Street carts probably won’t offer a diverse menu – you’ll probably just be able to choose with or without pate. Other spots have pretty diverse menus, like sausage, chicken and cheese, egg, and even vegetarian options.
Where: Like I said, you really can’t go wrong with a Banh Mi, and some of the best that I’ve had are less than $1 USD from a cart on the side of the road. If you see a line, hop in it. Most of the good carts aren’t even on Google. However, if you’re nervous about trying street food in that capacity and want an actual recommendation, a less intimidating option is Banh Mi 25. They offer a Westernized experience, have a diverse menu, and a good sandwich.
How to eat it: It’s a sandwich, so… just eat it like you would a sandwich.
Other Foods to Try
I could keep going forever, but here’s a few other things to try if you pass by.
- Bún bò nam bộ – A Southern dish, but I have a recommendation for here.
- Vietnamese desserts – specifically, I love bánh trôi tàu. You can get it from small dessert carts but also at Che 4 Mua. They have a bunch of other dessert options, too.
- Bún cá chấm – I’ve had it at this place. Fried fish, soup, and noodles.
- Bánh chuối chiều – fried banana in Old Quarter here.
Trust me when I say that this list is not comprehensive. However, I hope it serves as a good starting point and hopefully makes the diverse food choices a little less intimidating in Hanoi.
Have a favorite Vietnamese dish or spot to eat in Hanoi? Let me know!
As always, thanks for reading!
Emily Rose Wanders 